Jeju: A Healing Journey from East to West, Shaped by Volcanoes

Jeju contains almost all of the scenery created by volcanoes within one island. From the tuff cones rising from the shallow sea, the ups and downs along the ridges, the black basalt coast full of holes, and the cedar and camellia forests that cover the top - this journey is a natural healing course that connects the terrain and vegetation in one breath. You can meet the eastern sea at Ilchulbong and Seopjikoji on the Seongsan side, step on the forest's grain in Saryeoni Forest at the foot of Hallasan Mountain, and then cross to Andeok, Hallim, and Aewol in the west, taking in the camellia garden, shell sand beach, and sunset coastal walkway. As you pass through UNESCO World Natural Heritage Sites and Biosphere Reserves, it is like opening a textbook on geology and ecology at every step.

This article is organized as a review by location rather than an itinerary by date. in each placeA big view to see first, Details to see up close, Walking routes and practical tipsIt's organized around , so read it in order and choose a place you like and add it to your schedule. The route is arranged to flow from east to west, but there is no problem in changing the order depending on the location of the accommodation.

Seongsan Ilchulbong sunrise peak

It is a huge tuff cone that rises into the sea. About 5,000 years ago, it was created by hydrovolcanic activity when hot magma met cold seawater beneath the shallow sea and exploded. The volcanic ash retained moisture and became sticky, stacking and hardening to form the steep bowl shape it has today. At the summit, 182 meters above sea level, there is a wide crater where silver grass grows, and 99 rocky peaks surround it like a crown. From a distance it looks like a huge castle.Seongsan (城山), they say the sun rising above it is spectacular.Sunrise PeakIt was named as a natural monument and a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site.

There are many rocks on the peak with stories to tell. Among themclimbing stoneThere is a legend that the giant Seolmundae, who is said to have created Jeju, put up a lamp to patch her frayed skirt, and since there are 99 peaks around the mountain, one less than 100, there is also an old saying that there are no wild beasts such as tigers or lions on Jeju. Standing at the top and counting the number of peaks is a little fun unique to this place.

There is a single path leading up to the top from the ticket booth with stairs.Maiden Rock → Deunggyeongdol → Chogwan Rock → Gombawi RockWhen you pass one by one and climb up to the observatory, the green grass inside the crater and the blue sea beyond the ridge come into view on one screen. When going up, you can see the diagonal stripes and slopes of the tuff rock strata under your feet, and when coming down, if you look at the Udo Island and Seongsanpo directions that open to the left and right of the ridge, the same road feels new twice.

On the beach below the peak, performances are held where female divers show off their crafts, so if the time is right, stay for a while. right next to itGwangchigi BeachIt is a popular spot for sunrise photos as the black geological bottom made of hardened lava and green moss are revealed during low tide. Because the stairs are steep, we recommend wearing comfortable shoes and visiting early in the morning before it gets crowded.

Seopjikoji Coastal Wildflower Trail

Meaning ‘narrow land’SeopjiIt means a cape that extends like a beak into the sea.CozyAs the name suggests, it is a peninsula that protrudes long into the sea. Along the trail paved with red volcanic clusters, you will see strangely shaped rocks, wild flowers, and buildings one after another. There is a white lighthouse at the end of the road, and a towering lighthouse stands on the way.Seondol RockRocks like (Seonyeobawi Rock) appear against the backdrop of the sea. In spring, yellow rape flower fields spread widely along the road, making you slow down.

Another attraction is the two buildings designed by architect Tadao Ando.glass houseis shaped like two outstretched arms and has a facade made entirely of glass, bringing the entire sea into the interior, and the garden is organized in a triangular geometry. Built with exposed concreteYumin Art MuseumThe highlight of is that Jeju's nature is translated into architectural language. The entrance road to the museum is designed to resemble the mid-mountainous area at the foot of Hallasan Mountain, the pond in the courtyard is designed to resemble Baekrokdam, and the Byeokcheon Waterfall flowing down the wall is designed to resemble the coast. As you walk along the downhill route, Seongsan Ilchulbong and rapeseed fields come into the concrete frame designed by the architect, like a painting.

The easiest route is to take the trail from the parking lot, go to the lighthouse, and tour the art museum and glass house on the way back. Because it is a windy coast, it is easy to get your bearings if you bring a hat or outerwear and walk using Seongsan Ilchulbong, which can be seen across the sea, as a reference point.

Saryeoni Forest Trail Natural cedar forest

It is a gentle forest road that runs for about 15km from the entrance to Bijarim-ro, past Mulchat Oreum, and to Red Oreum. The average altitude is around 550m, so the ups and downs are not that big, so it's good for walking for people of all ages, and a straight cedar forest road forms the center of the road. But it's not just cedars.Oak tree, hornbeam tree, bamboo tree, dogwood tree, cypress treeThe natural forest mixed with trees, red volcanic clusters underfoot, and bamboo groves on both sides of the road change the look of each section. Along the way, you will walk along dry valleys such as Cheonmichen and Seojungcheon and several oreums. This forest is part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and you can walk through it without an entrance fee or reservation.

It’s okay to not have to walk the entire section. There are two entrances, one on Bijarim-ro and the other on Namjo-ro.Round trip from Saryeoni Forest parking lot to Bijarim-ro entranceIt's only about 3 hours, so it's not a burden. As you walk, feel the cedar crowns towering above your head, the soft feel of the clusters touching the soles of your feet, and the sound of the wind rustling the leaves. The darker the phytoncide, the better it is to slow down your steps.

Entry to Mulcha Oreum is usually restricted for security reasons, so we recommend checking whether it is open before visiting. After rain, the path can be slippery, so shoes with good traction are advantageous, and depending on the season, the forest shows a completely different landscape with fresh green, autumn leaves, and snow scenes.

Camellia Hill Camellia Arboretum

Located in Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo, it is the largest camellia arboretum in Asia, located on approximately 60,000 pyeong of land. From native camellias to baby camellias and European camelliasOver 500 varieties, over 6,000 trees from over 80 countriesThe camellias are gathered together, and red, pink, and white flowers bloom sequentially from winter to spring. It is also a unique privilege of this place to be able to compare the world's largest camellia flower, the earliest blooming camellia flower, and the fragrant camellia flower all in one place. The camellia flowers that fall to the floor and spread like a carpet create a scene that is as good as the flowers on the trees.

The garden is divided into 29 themed spaces, and the scenery changes depending on the route. Also known as the background for advertisingBirdsori Windsori Road, the Olle Trail along the Jeju stone wall, and the forest path lit with small light bulbs are representative photo points, and the glass greenhouse, pavilion (Suryujeong), and pond area are also worth taking a leisurely look around. From June to July, hydrangeas fill the garden, and it is fun to compare the colors of the same variety from blue to pink depending on the acidity (pH) of the soil.

If you walk from the entrance in the following order: Theme Garden → Glass Greenhouse → Suryujeong and Pond, you can easily take a circle. The best flowering time varies depending on the species, so plan your schedule based on winter to early spring for camellias and early summer for hydrangeas.

Hyeopjae Beach sandy beach

This is a beach where white sand mixed with finely broken shells meets shallow, transparent emerald sea. A small island in front of the sea created by a volcanic eruptionNon-assignmentis floating, white sand, blue sea, black basalt, and green island are captured in one scene. The gentle slope and shallow water make it a good place for families to stay, and the pine forest behind provides a shady resting place in the middle of the day.

When walking on a sandy beach, look at the contrast between the finely broken shells mixed with the sand grains under your feet and the black basalt rocks exposed at the water's edge. The spot in front of Biyangdo Island is the representative view line.

There are many places to explore just a short distance from the beach.

• Hallim Park— With the palm tree roadHyeopjaegul and Ssangyong CaveIt contains a lava tube. Hyeopjaegul Cave, designated as a natural monument, is a rare cave that shows the characteristics of both a lava cave and a limestone cave, with lime components dissolved from the shell sand on the floor growing into stalactites on the ceiling. Ssangyong Cave, which immediately follows it, is considered the representative lava cave of Jeju along with Manjanggul Cave.
• Geumneung Beach— It is a more secluded sister beach that leads to Hyeopjae and the sandy beach.
• Geumneung Stone Park, Wolnyeong-ri cactus habitat— You can see Jeju Dolhareubang and stone culture together with the prickly pear cactus that forms a colony while enduring the sea breeze.

Aewol Handam Coastal Sunset Road

This is a walking trail that runs approximately 1.2km along the coastline from Handam-dong in Aewol-ri to Gwakji Beach (Gwamul Beach). Also called 'Gwakgeum Olle Trail', the road winds between black basalt rocks, allowing you to see the sea from the spot closest to the waves. It is located on the west side of Jeju, so the red and gold sunset is especially nice. At the entrance to the promenade, there is a tattoo from the late Joseon Dynasty.Jang Han-cheolThere is a marker commemorating this road, as he is a person who wrote “Pyohaerok” about his experience of being adrift in a storm while crossing the sea to see the past.Janghancheol TrailIt is also called.

A cafe village has been formed along the road, making it a good place to take a break while walking, and there are also places where you can stop by with your dog. At Gwakji Gwamul Beach at the end, you can see spring water gushing out onto the beach, and it has long been used as a place to cool off from the heat. As you walk, look out for the hollows and puddles in the basalt beneath your feet, and the moment the light changes towards the west as the sun sets.

You can start your walk from anywhere: the large parking lot at Gwakji Beach, the parking lot with the Mulheobeok Woman Statue, or the Handam-dong bus stop. To catch the sunset, it is best to arrive 30 minutes to an hour before sunset.

How to enjoy a place more deeply

If you set one observation point for each place, the same scenery will look different.craterIn the ridge, the height of the crater floor, and the stripes of the tuff strata,forestIn the cedar bark and the feel of the cluster road,seashoreIn , you can see the color contrast between seashells and basalt mixed in the sand, and the location of Biyangdo Island.sunset roadTo the west, where the sun sets,camellia gardenFollow the route as flower colors and themed spaces change for each variety.

If you add seasons and time zones, the same course becomes new every time. Seongsan Ilchulbong and Gwangchigi Beach shine brightest at sunrise in the early morning, Handam and Gwakji Beach shine brightest at sunset in the evening, and Saryeoni Forest shows a different face with its deep green right after a rain, fall foliage, and winter snow scenery. Camellia is at its peak in mid-winter to early spring, rapeseed is in spring, and hydrangea is at its peak in early summer, so it's a good idea to plan your route around one or two places according to the time of visit.